Providence has many Italian restaurants, but Al Forno is in a class of its own. Known as the birthplace of grilled pizza, Al Forno gained worldwide fame in 1993 when it was named the “best casual restaurant in the world” by the International Herald Tribune.
Johanne Killeen, a New Jersey native who graduated from the Rhode Island School of Design, opened Al Forno in 1980 with her late husband George Germon. She sat down with Ocean State Media’s Ian Donnis to reflect on her journey to becoming one of Providence’s most successful restaurateurs.
Interview highlights
On opening Al Forno in 1980 with her late husband George Germon
Johanne Killeen: We were both more than enchanted with Italy. I lived in Florence after I graduated from RISD, and George taught the European Honors Program for RISD in Rome. There were things (in Italy) about the feeling of places, the kind of welcome you got, the atmosphere, plus the food, and those were the things that we really wanted to bring back to Rhode Island and share with clients and customers.
I think I probably had aspirations to go to New York because being from New Jersey, New York was kind of a mecca, I suppose. George really loved the architecture here. Just walking down Benefit Street was heaven for him, to see the colonial houses, and he just, he really loved Providence. I also loved Providence, but I just thought New York would be a great place to open a restaurant. But George was right in the end.
Once we opened the restaurant, there wasn't very much to think about except getting there in the morning and leaving late at night, and repeat, repeat. I love Providence more now. I love Rhode Island more. I don't want to live anyplace else. Part of that is going away and coming back, and then seeing Rhode Island with fresh eyes. I can remember, after being away, going over the Jamestown Bridge and the Newport Bridge thinking, "it cannot be more beautiful than this." I have good friends here, and I'm very happy here.
On the impact former Providence mayor Buddy Cianci had on Al Forno’s success
Killeen: He knew everything that was going on in Providence, and he was the most pro-Providence person that I think ever walked the earth. He was interested in business, he was interested in young people and he was interested in the growth of Providence. He helped us. We opened without a liquor license, and he basically gave us the steps to get a liquor license. I mean, you had to buy the liquor license, which was $32,000 at the time, which was a lot more money than we thought we could afford. But he just gave us the steps of going to the bank. I mean, we were totally naive. We didn't know anything about business, and he just showed us the way to do it.
On the consistency of the menu at Al Forno
Killeen: It's obvious that it's very seasonal. In the summer, there's corn all over the menu, even though corn (was) not, especially in 1980, an ingredient that would be normally found in a restaurant. That was mostly for livestock. So corn is all over the menu in the summer. In the fall, we start with pumpkins and squashes and that sort of thing. In the winter, it's winter vegetables, and in the spring, asparagus. So it's a very seasonal menu.
It does change quite a bit. We have things on the menu that have become signature dishes, like the Clams Al Forno or the clam roast. But there's always something new on the menu. For instance, desserts change seasonally, as well, so you're not going to find raspberries here in the winter, but you will find them here in the summer. It’s just what real markets and local farmers can bring for us.
On the challenges of operating a restaurant today
Killeen: I think the rules have changed in terms of economics. It seems that you have to hit the ground running as soon as you open the doors, and that's not inexpensive. That's quite expensive. So I think the stakes are different. But if you find the right location and you have reasonable expenses, it still could be done.
I still love it. I think George would be happy to know that I'm still doing this. It's not the same without George. Maybe not as much fun, let's say, but I still love what I do, and I'm happy doing it. So why would I not do it?
